Installation and Compatibility Guide

Everything your electrician needs to install a Studio Timeless plate: how each control is wired, what it works with, and what to check when something doesn't behave. Read the section for the control you're holding. If anything in your wall box looks different from what's described here, stop and write to us at support@studio-timeless.com with a photo of the box, we answer electricians the same day.

Contents

1. Before you start

Turn the circuit off at the breaker and confirm it's dead with a voltage tester before touching a wire or a terminal. Use copper conductors. Follow the NEC and your local code. Our plates are designed for licensed electricians and experienced installers; the installer is responsible for confirming the wiring method for the specific installation. Never proceed by trial and error: a wrong guess on a 3 way or a dimmer is what burns a module. When in doubt, send us a photo of the box before connecting anything.

2. How our plates are built

Each Studio Timeless piece is a solid brass plate with the control machined directly into it. Behind the plate, every position is an independent device: a toggle module, a dimmer module, an outlet or a GFCI. So a 3 gang plate with two dimmers and a toggle is three separate devices sharing one seamless plate, each wired on its own. Positions are always numbered left to right, facing the plate.

We make two toggle ranges, and they are not wired the same way. The Retro Toggle has a round threaded bushing with a ring nut on the face of the plate and numbered screw terminals. The Knurled Toggle has a knurled lever set in a rectangular insert, and a green ground screw. Check which one you have before reading further: the instructions for one don't apply to the other.

3. Retro Toggle: single pole and 3 way

The Retro Toggle module has no coloured leads. It has three numbered screw terminals, 1, 2 and 3, and the numbers are what count, never a colour. The same module works as a single pole switch or as a 3 way switch, depending only on how it's wired.

Retro Toggle module seen from the back: terminals 1, 2 and 3, ground tab Retro Toggle module, seen from the backRETRO TOGGLE1traveller2COMMON3travellerground tabThe numbers are moulded next to each screw. Terminal 2, in the centre, is the common. 1 and 3 are the travellers.Ground goes to the small brass tab on the back of the module. There is no green screw on this range.
  • Terminal 2, in the centre, is the common.
  • Terminals 1 and 3 are the travellers.
  • Ground goes to the small brass tab on the back of the module. There is no green screw on this range.
  • Neutrals are joined together in the box with a wire nut. They never land on the switch. (Some older houses use a switch loop where a white wire carries the hot: your electrician will recognise it.)

Single pole, one switch for one light. Line from the breaker to terminal 2. Load to the fixture on terminal 1 or terminal 3, either one. The remaining terminal stays empty.

Single pole wiring with a Retro or Knurled Toggle Single pole: one switch, one lightBREAKER120 VTOGGLE1traveller2COMMON3travellerfixtureNEUTRAL: joined in the box, straight to the fixtureGROUND to the brass tab (Retro) or the green screw (Knurled)LINE (hot) to terminal 2, the commonLOAD to the fixture,from terminal 1 (or 3)The remaining traveller terminal stays empty.Same wiring on a Knurled Toggle, with the ground on its green screw.123

3 way, two switches for one light. On the switch that receives power, line goes to terminal 2 and the two traveller wires to terminals 1 and 3. On the switch at the other end, the two travellers go to 1 and 3 and the load to the fixture leaves from terminal 2. Either traveller wire can go on either traveller terminal. The neutral runs straight to the fixture and bypasses both switches.

3 way wiring with two toggles 3 way: two switches, one lightBREAKER120 VTOGGLE A1traveller2COMMON3travellerTOGGLE B1traveller2COMMON3travellerfixtureNEUTRAL bypasses both switchesGROUND to each moduleLINE to common (2) of ATRAVELLERS: 1 to 1, 3 to 3LOAD from common (2) of BEither traveller wire can go on either traveller terminal. The common always goes on terminal 2: put it on a traveller and the light only answers from one side.123123

4. Knurled Toggle: single pole and 3 way

Same logic, different hardware. The Knurled Toggle module also has three numbered terminals with terminal 2 as the common and 1 and 3 as the travellers, wired exactly as above for single pole and 3 way. The difference is the ground: this module has a dedicated green ground screw. Connect the bare or green wire from the box to it, and to the metal box if the box is metal.

5. 4 way toggles, three or more locations

A light controlled from three places uses two 3 way switches at the ends of the circuit and one 4 way switch in the middle. Four or more places: add a 4 way for each extra location, always between the two 3 ways. The 4 way never sees the line or the load directly, only the two pairs of travellers.

Our 4 way module has six numbered terminals, four of which are used. Go by the numbers moulded into the body next to each screw, never by screw colour. One traveller pair, the two wires coming from the first 3 way switch, lands on terminals 2 and 5. The other traveller pair, from the second 3 way switch, lands on terminals 1 and 4. Terminals 1 and 6, and 3 and 4, are cross linked on the module. Ground to the brass tab. The two pairs are interchangeable, but the two wires of one cable must stay together on one pair: splitting a cable across the two pairs is the most common 4 way mistake, and the symptom is a switch that only works in one position.

4 way wiring: two 3 way toggles at the ends, a 4 way in the middle 4 way: three locations, one lightBREAKER120 V4 WAY3216543 WAY A1traveller2COMMON3traveller3 WAY B1traveller2COMMON3travellerfixtureNEUTRAL bypasses all three switchesGROUND to each moduleLINE to common (2) of ATRAVELLERS: pair from A on 2 and 5, pair to B on 1 and 4LOAD from common (2) of BTerminals 3 and 6 stay empty. Keep the two wires of one cable together on one pair: splitting a cable across the pairs is the classic 4 way mistake.123123321654 4 way module terminal map: six terminals, four used 4 way module: six terminals, four used4 WAY321654ground tab2 and 5: pair from the first 3 way1 and 4: pair to the second 3 way3 and 6: not usedTerminals 3 to 4 and 1 to 6 are cross linked (dashed). Go by the numbers moulded next to each screw, never by position or screw colour.The two pairs are interchangeable, but the two wires of one cable must stay together on one pair.Our 4 way modules look like the 3 way ones from the outside: keep the marked box with its plate.

Our 4 way modules look identical to the 3 way ones. If you ordered a 4 way position, the module is marked on its box: keep it with its plate.

6. Single pole rotary dimmer

The single pole rotary dimmer is a forward phase (TRIAC) dimmer for 120 V lighting, one location controlling one light. You turn the knob to switch on and off and to dim.

  • The module is one in, one out: one lead takes the line from the breaker, the other goes out to the fixture.
  • Neutral does not pass through the dimmer. It's joined in the box and runs straight to the fixture.
  • Ground: this module has no ground lead of its own. The ground wire carries on to the fixture, and the module is earthed through its steel frame and the box. If your module has a green lead, connect it to the box ground.

Ratings: 110 to 120 V, 50/60 Hz. Maximum 250 W incandescent or halogen, 50 W LED. Overheat protection. UL listed E511941.

Single pole rotary dimmer wiring: one lead in, one lead out Single pole rotary dimmer: one in, one outBREAKER120 VDIMMERfixtureNEUTRAL never passes through the dimmerGROUND carries on to the fixture (no ground lead on this module)LINE inLOAD out to the fixtureThe two leads are the dimmer's in and out. Turn the knob to switch on and off, and to dim.If your module carries a green lead, connect it to the box ground. 250 W incandescent or 50 W LED maximum.

7. 3 way rotary dimmer

The 3 way rotary dimmer sits at one end of a two location circuit. On this module you push the knob to switch on and off and turn it to dim. It has four leads, labelled on the module:

  • IN, the common. It takes the line if the dimmer is at the power end of the circuit, or the load if it's at the fixture end.
  • WAY 1 and WAY 2, the two travellers going to the other switch. Either wire on either one.
  • GROUND, to the box ground.

At the other end of the circuit sits a plain 3 way toggle, common on terminal 2 and the two travellers on 1 and 3. Never put a second dimmer on the same light. Two dimmers on one circuit fight each other: flicker, erratic behaviour and, eventually, a dead module. One dimmer per circuit, always, with a toggle at the other location. If you want the same look at both ends, the second position is a toggle in the same finish.

3 way rotary dimmer wiring with a 3 way toggle at the other end 3 way rotary dimmer at one end, a 3 way toggle at the otherBREAKER120 V3 WAY DIMMERINWAY 1WAY 2GROUND3 WAY TOGGLE1traveller2COMMON3travellerfixtureNEUTRAL bypasses bothGROUND: green lead on the dimmer, brass tab on the toggleLINE to IN (the common of the dimmer)WAY 1 to 1, WAY 2 to 3LOAD from common (2)Either WAY lead on either traveller terminal. Push the knob to switch on and off, turn to dim. At the fixture end, IN takes the load. 600 W inc. or 150 W LED max.123 Never install two dimmers on the same 3 way circuit Not allowed: two dimmers on the same lightDIMMERDIMMERfixtureTwo TRIAC dimmers in series fight each other: flicker, erratic behaviour, dead module. One dimmer per circuit, a toggle at the other end.

Used on a single pole circuit, the 3 way dimmer works too: IN to the line, WAY 1 to the load, WAY 2 capped. That's how to get a push on and off dimmer on a single location.

Ratings: 110 to 130 V, 50/60 Hz. Maximum 600 W incandescent or halogen, 150 W LED. On multi gang plates, count 100 W of LED per dimmer position. Overheat protection. UL listed E522988.

8. Bulbs, drivers and what dims properly

Our rotary dimmers are forward phase, TRIAC dimmers. That decides what they work with.

  • Incandescent and halogen: fully compatible, smooth to the bottom of the range.
  • LED bulbs: only bulbs marked dimmable and rated for forward phase or TRIAC dimmers. A non dimmable LED flickers, buzzes or fails. Most CFLs are not dimmable.
  • Integrated LED fixtures and drivers: check the fixture's label or datasheet. If it says TRIAC, forward phase or leading edge, it works. If it says ELV, trailing edge or reverse phase, it does not work with our dimmers, whatever the wiring: use a plate with a Decora opening and a third party ELV dimmer behind it.
  • Minimum load: keep at least 20 W on each dimmer. A single small LED on its own dimmer sits below that and can flicker at the bottom of the range. Add load to the circuit, choose a fixture with a low stated minimum load, or make that position a toggle.
  • LED strips: never connect a dimmer straight to a low voltage strip. The order is 120 V, then the dimmer, then a TRIAC dimmable driver, then the strip. Or use one of our low voltage dimmers below.
  • Motors: never on a dimmer. A dimmer must not drive an awning motor, a fan or anything with a motor in it.

Quick test when a light flickers: put an incandescent bulb in. If it dims cleanly, the module is fine and the problem is the LED bulb or driver.

9. Low voltage dimmers: 0 to 10 V and 12 to 24 V

These two share the same round opening as a 120 V dimmer and look the same from the front. They do completely different jobs, and neither replaces a 120 V dimmer.

0 to 10 V dimmer. It doesn't carry the light's power at all. Its two leads send a 0 to 10 V control signal to the DIM+ and DIM− inputs of an LED driver that supports 0 to 10 V (or 1 to 10 V) dimming. The driver's 120 V supply stays on permanently, so the light needs a separate switch upstream to turn fully off: on our plates, that's a toggle next to the dimmer. Check the driver's datasheet before ordering. It cannot be used with a TRIAC dimmable driver.

0 to 10 V dimmer wiring: a toggle switches the driver, the dimmer sends the signal 0 to 10 V dimmer: the toggle switches the driver, the dimmer only sends a signalBREAKER120 VTOGGLE1traveller2COMMON3traveller0 to 10 V DIMMERLED DRIVER0 to 10 V dimmableDIM+DIM−fixtureNEUTRAL to the driverLINE to common (2)120 Vswitched bythe toggletwo signal leads, low voltage onlyto the fixtureNo 120 V on the dimmer. The driver's 120 V stays on, the toggle turns it off. The driver must state 0 to 10 V (or 1 to 10 V) dimming.123

12 to 24 V LED strip dimmer (PWM). It sits on the DC side, after the power supply: 120 V to the constant voltage power supply, then the dimmer, then the strip. It dims the strip directly by pulse width modulation. For LED strips and other 12 or 24 V DC lighting only, never on 120 V, never on a motor or an inductive load.

12 to 24 V PWM strip dimmer: after the power supply, before the strip 12 to 24 V LED strip dimmer: always on the DC side120 Vbreaker or togglePOWER SUPPLY12 or 24 V DC outPWM DIMMERLED strip120 V+ / −dimmed DC120 V goes to the power supply, never to this dimmer. The dimmer sits between the supply's DC output and the strip.For 12 or 24 V DC lighting only. Not for motors, not for 120 V loads.

10. Fan speed control

The rotary fan speed control is for standard ceiling paddle fans only, with a plain AC motor. It is not compatible with smart fans, remote controlled fans or fans with a built in electronic receiver or speed module: using it on one can damage the fan motor, the control, or both. It is not a light dimmer and must never be used on a lighting circuit. A bathroom exhaust fan is switched with a toggle, not a fan control. If a fan also has a light, that light needs its own position.

11. Outlets, GFCI and USB

Our outlet plates take standard US devices: a duplex receptacle, a GFCI or a USB charging outlet, in 15 A or 20 A, with a black or white face. They wire like any receptacle: hot to the brass terminal, neutral to the silver terminal, ground to the green screw; on a GFCI, respect the LINE and LOAD markings. A plate with a "Decora" or "Rocker / GFCI" opening is machined to the standard Decora rectangle, so any Decora format device fits behind it: a GFCI, an occupancy sensor, a third party ELV dimmer.

12. Mounting, boxes and screws

All our plates fit standard US single gang and multi gang boxes at standard spacing: 3 5/16 in between the device mounting holes, 2 3/8 in between the plate screws. Each module screws to the box ears like any US device; the Retro Toggle is also held to the plate by its ring nut. Wire the modules, mount them, then fit the plate last with the brass screws. Multi gang plates use two screws per gang. The thread is the standard 6 32.

If the box sits back behind a tile or stone backsplash, our brass screw extensions bring the thread forward by one inch. They only work when the box ear is recessed a full inch or more behind the finished surface. For a shallower recess, use longer 6 32 brass machine screws from any hardware store.

Our dimmers need the box to have room for the module: a standard 2 1/2 in deep box is fine. Don't force a module into a shallow box.

13. Troubleshooting

  • Nothing turns on. Check the breaker, then check line and load are on the right terminals. On a 3 way, check the common is on the common terminal (terminal 2 on a toggle, IN on the dimmer) and not on a traveller.
  • A 3 way only works from one location, or in one position. The common has been put on a traveller terminal, or there are two dimmers on the circuit. Identify the common with the marking on the old switch or a continuity tester and move it.
  • A 4 way position does nothing in one direction. The two wires of one cable have been split across the two traveller pairs. Keep each cable's pair together on 2 and 5, or on 1 and 4.
  • LED flickers or buzzes. The bulb or driver isn't rated for forward phase dimming, or the load is under 20 W. Try an incandescent bulb: if it dims cleanly, change the LEDs.
  • The light won't go very low before switching off. The LED has a compressed dimming range. Choose LEDs rated for forward phase dimmers with a wide dimming range.
  • The dimmer is warm. Slightly warm is normal. Hot means the load is above the rating or the wrong kind: reduce it or check the fixture type.
  • A fan hums or won't change speed. The fan has an electronic receiver and isn't compatible with the fan control.

14. Voltage and certifications

All our devices are 120 V, North American standard. They are not compatible with 220 to 240 V. The Knurled range, the rotary dimmers, the fan speed control and the outlets are UL listed. The Retro Toggle is CE certified and not UL listed: it installs and works the same way in US boxes, and many of our customers use it, but if your inspection requires UL end to end, build the configuration on the Knurled range. Canada: our devices carry no cULus or CSA mark; they work on 120 V in standard boxes, but check with your inspector.

Still unsure? Write to support@studio-timeless.com with your order number, the plate you're installing and a photo of the box. We'll send back a wiring diagram for that exact plate.